We are re-featuring talented Fashion Designer Martijn van Strien who has recently launched an experimental fashion label called m p h v s.
If ever the worlds of fashion and science were located on two different sides of the universe, Martijn van Strien is well on this way to assemble them together into one perfect dark harmony. He creates a world where anything is possible and constantly changing. Urban becomes rural, ugly turns into beauty and rainbows come in black and white. Ever future-focused, his aim is to make the best possible version of everything. Textile design might just be the beginning.
Van Strien’s interest in the technical side of fashion and design made him stand out at the Design Academy Eindhoven where he graduated in December 2012. There he specialised in textile design and trend forecasting. Skills and knowledge he developed further at the Textile Department of Konstfack University College of Arts, Crafts and Design in Stockholm, focusing on handcrafts and textile manufacturing.
His two graduation projects at DAE, Threads for Cockaigne and Dystopian Brutalist Outerwear, received wide international praise and recognition. Both collections arose from imaginative worlds and abstract concepts. The first found inspiration in craftsmanship from the past, Medieval tales in particular. While the second explored future and ‘sustainable’ adaptations of textile design. For this he was awarded a prestigious ‘Keep an Eye’ grant during the Dutch Design Week, to continue designing and experimenting with various materials. This grant was used to develop a new collection and launch a new experimental fashion label, mphvs, in October 2014.
His interest in future-focused and sustainable fashion, brought him to Antwerp, where he assisted fashion designer Bruno Pieters at Honest By. Besides exploring material sourcing, his work included all the Honest by graphic design, website, publicity and organising a book project.
‘’Nothing endures but change’’, (Heraclitus) and in the case of Van Strien this craving for evolution has become a recurring element in his work. Intrigued by the speed of fashion, standing still will never be an option for the young creator. In order to do this, it is important to keep your eyes open at all times, discovering and analysing new things. Preferably with one eye peeking into the future.
At the same time, he likes the mystery of not knowing how something is constructed. It is this curiosity that makes him want to take a new approach to ‘sustainable’ fashion, working with recycled or organic-based synthetic materials instead of the old fashioned eco materials like organic hemp or cotton. He plans to develop his expertise in textile design through partnerships with established studios in the fashion industry.
In the world of Martijn van Strien anything is possible, styled and constantly evolving.
contra • dictions
"Here the boundaries meet and all contradictions exist side by side." - Fyodor Dostoevsky in 'The Brothers Karamazov'.
Inspired by a man who travels the edges of his existence.
The cuts and patterns reflect his journey and originated in the buildings, bridges and other man-made structures he passed.
Made using high-tech equipment to turn unconventional materials into wearable pieces, this collection is an exploration into the future of fashion. Taking a parallel path to the opportunities 3d-printing brings to product design, this technique makes one-of-a-kind, custom garments possible to exactly fit the “consumer’s” size and demands. A 21st century approach to haute couture.
The shapes are inspired by architecture. They’re kept simple and square because the main focus is on the material. It’s a ‘unisex’ collection because I don’t believe in the difference between men and women. Physically there doesn’t have to be much difference, so also what they wear can be similar. The pieces are all made from one and the same material, a pvc tarp in either black or white. All seams are welded in straight lines
The material came from a long research into the possibilities of making heavy industrial materials lighter, flexible and more wearable. The goal was to add different qualities to one piece of material to eliminate the need to use different materials in one garment. All holes and outlines are cut into the material by using a laser cutter. Which makes it easy to adapt a garment to specific sizes, prints or other requirements. Each garment can be unique, there is no need to mass-produce large amounts of the same garment.
The mood of the collection is inspired by a man traveling the edges of his existence. Its about staying on the move, visiting different places, looking for the unknown in search of yourself. It’s about being confused and lost and liking it, about perpetual change. About the contrast between real and unreal, between organic and geometric, alive and dead, material and no material.
photos. Olya Oleinic
hair & make-up. Cristina Vila
models. Ian @ FIC & Katie @ Paparazzi
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